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A spectacularly beautiful, spectacularly mismanaged city whose high point came in the 18th century when it was the center of the American revolution's planning and execution. Having fostered the creation of the modern world, Philadelphia retired from the scene. The nickname Philly,' the 'blue-collar' sobriquiet, the cheesesteaks-and-scrapple rep, the sports losers mythology - all dross, all amusements for a frivolous era. Philadelphia is an old, serene snake coiled atop her rocky Main Line, an ambitionless city with old blood, old sins and old soul.
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